Even in these increasingly digital times, many people are rekindling—purposefully and with great enjoyment—their relationship to analog. Chief among them: wearers and collectors of fine timepieces. Of course, those who already know about these things can tell you that such a purchase should not be made blithely. Our friends at Related Life spoke with the experts at Panerai—the iconic legacy watch brand—to understand how to ensure your new accessory stands the test of time.
The true value of a watch lies in what it means to the wearer—be it a gift to oneself or from someone special. As such, the most important considerations are a personal connection to the brand, the watch’s design, and its story. The experts at Panerai say your timepiece should fill you with confidence when you put it on, ready to take on the world. And if it makes you feel that way, it’s bound to make others feel that way too someday, and that’s good for long-term value. Here are several other considerations to keep in mind as you make your selection.
There are many mass brands, but only a few collectors’ brands. Look for those that are more niche, that is, that produce a limited amount. Many of the top watch brands have a waitlist for their most coveted pieces, giving preference to their most passionate and trustworthy clients. This allows them to manage the reputation of their brand, which in turn maintains the value of their watches over time.
Tip: Build a relationship with a brand you like. That means finding a dedicated sales agent you feel comfortable with, and being aware that you might well have to become a top customer before you get the opportunity to purchase one of the line’s most exclusive watches. Don’t be coy, though. Displaying a real passion for the brand just might move you up the list.
“Limited” refers to more than production count. For instance, maybe unique materials were used in the run, or maybe the watch was made in partnership with an organization or to commemorate an historical moment. In terms of numbers, anything less than 1,000 is considered rare.
Tip: Securing a super-rare limited edition piece can often require being in the right place at the right time. If you’ve homed in on a brand you think is doing interesting things, check with your sales agent often; over time, the two of you are sure to find something that speaks to you.
You join a community when you buy a brand’s watch, a community that convenes in non-brand-owned forums, collector groups and Instagram accounts in which owners chat excitedly and post lots of pictures of their watches. Before you buy, you can learn a lot about a watch and its brand in these settings, including how fervent the fan base is. And that matters because, as previously mentioned, future value often depends on the passion of the collector base. The longest-standing, most-engaged collector groups are most likely to keep the brand’s buzz at a fever pitch.
Tip: Consider the community of collectors and the house they built. The future value of your watch is based on future demand.
The most valuable watches come from brands with a history. They’ve weathered recessions and wars, and, not least, the endless merry-go-round of trends. Take some time to learn that story. Know what makes the watches unique as well. Most brands and watches have a specific characteristic, design or personality that has defined them through the years, something that continues to make them memorable and iconic.
Tip: Focus on legacy brands. Their history is bound to be the most dramatic and distinctive.
A watch with an in-house movement is a custom piece made exclusively by the brand. Buying one means you are making an investment in the actual watchmaking process. Usually, brands that have created the necessary infrastructure for this are of the legacy variety, and their own investment in such an infrastructure makes it much more likely that they will be around for years to come.
Tip: Lean toward watches with in-house movements.
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